St John's Eve

[lunaticheathen]

Disclaimer: I'm not looking to validate or defend anything here. I'm simply recounting an experience I recently had.

 

Every year, a local Mambo (priestess) holds a ritual for St John's Eve (June 23rd) on the Bayou St John walking bridge. It is to honor Marie Laveau, the famous Vodou priestess of New Orleans who lived and is entombed here. It is said that she also held the same festival on the banks of the same Bayou (no records, since Vodou was illegal at the time, and she was never arrested). This year, I finally got a chance to attend.

I donned my white clothing and head-scarf and walked over there a little early, with my offerings and a beer. A little over a dozen people were already there, altar already set up, so it was down to waiting as the sun set. More people showed up, until the bridge was nearly full - certainly around 50 people in all.

Presently, the Mambo called everyone's attention, explained the very basics of the ritual, and another Mambo started singing traditional Creole songs to open the ritual. The drumming and words soon got into my head, and soon I was swaying and clapping along. After the first song, a cloud rainbow appeared around the setting sun. In the second or third song, an attendee fell down, writhing on the bridge like a snake - I assume a possession by Simbi. The Mambo not singing and other attendees grabbed up a white cloth, holding up like a canopy over her. The song was not interrupted.

Soon, it came time for the ritual dance. This flowed organically from the ongoing music. First came the machete-bearer, drawing out the circle and four directions with the machete - joined after by the flag-bearers flanking him (what looked like a Legba flag, and the other LaSiren), entering the circle, dancing before the altar. Then the tops of the flag-poles were crossed over the machete handle, and passed around the circle for all to touch/kiss.

The flags left, and in came Mambo, with her rattle, and did "battle" with the machete-bearer. Mambo won, of course, kissing the handle of the "defeated" machete.

Next came the time to place offerings on the altar. Mambo and the Machete-bearer lit the candles, twirled before the altar with their offerings to Maman Laveau, and left them on it, then invited everyone there to leave their gifts. Mambo then went around the circle,

dispensing water for blessing. The same water was then used to trace the circle again, and the four directions.

Next came one of the best parts, in my opinion - the drawing of the veves. Remember, the music never stopped through this whole process, neither drumming nor singing. It definitely felt like I was in a different world by this point. The meticulous drawing of the veves entranced me - these are the siguls used in Vodou to call upon certain lwas (spirits/deities), drawn in corn meal. There was one that was actually four in one, and a larger one just for Marie Laveau. Then each veve was charged with song, and blessing with water and flame (with a jar-candle placed gently on top). We kissed the ground as each was blessed (well, I played mimic with those who had obviously done this before).

My next favorite part came after. The head-washing. This was introduced at the very beginning of the ceremony as "Vodou baptism", but that's a little simplified. Head-washing may be done outside of initiation, though it is part of that as well. It is mainly to "cool the head", and clear the mind, where the lwa reside when we let them in. It is part dedication, part initiation, but mostly cleansing.

Anyway, this was my first time seeing a head-wash being prepared (outside of my very simple ones with water and perfume) - this one had water and perfume (florida water), coconut cake, champagne, bananas, grapes, flower petals, and maybe some other stuff I missed, there was a crowd around the two bowls, and I lost track, and was drifing into a spot in the lines forming. The procedure was rather simple - kneel in front of one of the Mambos, she would take your scarf off, put your hands in the wash, lean forward and close your eyes. The Mambo then smears the wash over your head, down your neck, over your heart, third eye, and the insides of your elbows. Then you are instructed to wipe your hands, covered in the wash, over your face - wipe off your face/hands with a towel, Mambo re-ties your scarf, then you stand, grasp hands cross-ways, touch cross shoulder three times, shake thrice, and you're done. The only variation with me was she also rubbed the wash over my left shoulder - where my Erzulie Dantor veve tattoo is. That made me extraordinarily happy, along with the heightened euphoria the drums and washing brought me.

Everything came together to make me feel, honestly, like I was high/tripping like crazy. I can't pinpoint one spot where it came on, it was all cumulative. I was dancing some waiting for the wash, and when I was done, I danced even more - I felt elated and like the drums were a giant heart I was inside. It was then I finally noticed two other people who were possessed - I believe with Ghede and Legba, both tricksters. Ghede was smoking two cigarettes, drinking rum, and putting others into trances, or flirting with girls. Legba snatched up a hydrangea stalk from the altar, and shoved it down the back of his pants, dancing like he had a tail. Then it went down the front, waving it like it was his penis, ripping blossoms off the top, and tossing them at all the girls. One exclaimed "he's being deflowered!" and that ended up in most of us cracking up. I've never been part of a ritual that was entirely light-hearted and affirming life.

The fire department showed up during general head-washing and dancing, called by some nosy neighbor. We had to snuff the candles, but we carried on.

After the two last people possessed were themselves again, and the drumming stopped, another lady (still not sure who she was at all) said she was doing "old-fashioned Bayou baptism for those brave enough." I can't turn down a challenge. I watched one guy ahead of me, and then decided, what the hell, and jumped in (not the wisest thing I've done, but meh). She was in a canoe, and called me to swim over, and hang on to the side. I said "I will die in this lake", she bonked me on the head with the oar, and I ducked under the water. She bathed my wet head in a lot of florida water, spoke a blessing over me, and it was done. As I swam to the banks, and crawled out of the Bayou, I was hit with a surge of intoxicating...well, something, and had to lay down on the grass for a bit. All I remember is the smell of the earth, grass, and water, and like everything was singing. I opened my eyes to the nearly full moon, so very bright, and felt filled with being that was so pure, I was bowled over by it.

When I did find my feet, I was as high as I've ever been, but without any substances (one beer hours before this had no effect, I assure you). I was gasping, gawking, and giggling, and one of the other attendees walked up to me and said "congratulations!", likely noting my sodden clothes and my smitten face. I know I spoke with him, something about how amazing it all felt, but I hardly remember it - or the walk home. I kind of remember saying goodnight, hugging some strangers who had become friends, and staring at the moon as a wandered home.

I remember telling my boyfriend I was "tripping balls", and he responded "ok, on what?" I said "Vodou." He looked at me like I was a bit nuts, but he's not one to freak out.

I remember staring at the tv like I didn't quite know what it was. It took me a while to get a grip on "normal" surroundings.

There's another ritual tomorrow, a rite to send apologies and blessings to the ocean. I certainly plan on attending, even though it's across town.

I loved studying Vodou and doing private rituals, but I have to admit greatly enjoying being in a group, with all that energy invested in it from many people. And I never felt like I was being asked to be anything but who I am, which is what I was afraid of. But those fears were not realized, and I am elated.

[Guest ephymeris]

What a beautiful experience! Thanks for sharing Luna! I'm glad you had such a positive experience

[OpheliaGinger]

That would have been one experience I would like to have seen.

[lunaticheathen]

I just found this on facebook

 

See more of that night on Greg Rhoades Photography on FB. Excellent work by this guy.

[Jovan]

That is a captivating story! It sounds absolutely amazing and I wish I could have been there! I've been in very few situations like that, both secular and religious. I think the music, dancing and novelty has a lot to do with me feeling "high" like that. It's funny how even your speech begins to slur when you have experiences like that, because you are just so intoxicated and full of bliss. Speaking becomes an afterthought, almost useless. I myself don't always consider them spiritual experiences in the sense that a spirit is possessing you, but I think it's something we all can tap into. It's similar to what I used to experience in my Pentecostal services but without any religious baggage or worry.

 

One of my favorite memories is when I went to my first non-Christian religious service a few years ago, a Hindu temple. I convinced a Catholic friend to go with me and we both showed up on a day that was a special "wedding service" between a god and goddess (Gopi or Govinda, I think. I don't really remember the name.) I still remember it vividly - sitting down on a crowded floor full of Indians, the music, the people talking to me, the Sanskrit, the flowers, the delicious food, and the dancing and "stick game". It was a life-changing experience.

 

I'm glad you got to attend that! Here's to many more adventures

[MultifariousBirdLady]

What a wonderful experience! I'm so glad you wrote about it here. Thank you!

[lunaticheathen]

Working in an occult store, I've found excuses to grab a book written by the presiding mambo of the ceremony described in the OP (Sallie Ann Glassman, Vodou Visions), and I've greatly been enlightened as to the purpose of a lot of the actions and participants in the ceremony. I'll share some notes I made for myself concerning the participants here.

 

Laplas: The master of ceremonies, and machete bearer. He's the one who led the first dance, and did "battle" with the Mambo.

Drapos: Sequin-covered flags which represent the ruling lwa of the particular sosyete (society, or ounfu)

Ounsi: Vodou initiate, who often carry the drapos, led by the laplas around the ceremonial area, and often serve "minor" roles in ceremonies.

 

Another thing I've learned, re-reading Maya Deren's book along with Vodou Visions by Sallie Ann Glassman, is that the hierarchy is very loose in Vodou. Mambo means "priestess", sure, but she acts more as a spiritual mother than a person of "official" authority. The ounfu is a family. Respect is needed, but love is more vital.

 

I guess that's why I'm far more attracted to Vodou than any highly organized religion. The love is more up-front, not some feeling of superiority. That's what I feel, though.